When a trip to Tofo, which promised palm-fringed beaches, white sand and aquamarine seas, was proposed, I couldn’t have packed quicker.

Adding to the appeal was the option of being able to fly directly from Johannesburg to Inhambane, which cuts out the need to route and change flights in Maputo. It’s an hour and twenty minutes from JHB to Inhabane, and from there a taxi to Tofu in just twenty minutes.

The arrivals hall at Imhabane Airport was a little bit chaotic, but once we got through the formalities of form-filling and passport stamping, we went into the brightness of the midday sun and the cool comfort of a pre-booked taxi.

The taxi driver was delightful, spoke English perfectly and was engaging and helpful. This was very much the tone of all the people we met. Conversations were always filled with a welcome, and an interest in who we were. I never once had to delve into my Portuguese phrase book, as everyone spoke English perfectly, and wanted to.

Once off the main road, the surfaces turned to sand. Getting access to your lodges or accommodation, which effectively are all built on sand dunes, was quite easy, but it explained why most vehicles were 4x4, though having one is not a prerequisite. I saw several smaller standard saloon cars that had made the journey from Johannesburg.

The village that stretches along this section of the coast, for about eight kilometres, had signs of abandoned properties, victims of Covid and previous damaging cyclones. There were a few unfinished projects and relics from a warring and troubled past but now, some new and contemporary designed properties were being built on prime beach front plots amongst the traditional thatch homes and lodges. Accommodation options in Tofo are many and varied, from rustic thatched,  and manyAirbnb choices really nicely done, to four-star lodges. If you are there in the very hot and humid months of December and January, you might be grateful for accommodations that have air-conditioning, or at least accommodation that is located higher up on a dune and benefits not just from a sea view but also from the essential cooler sea breeze.

The village centre is a bustle of activity: bars, restaurants of various calibres, and of course the market, where a variety of fresh foods are offered enthusiastically. Stall holders vie for your attention with zealous sales banter. Clothing stalls and local artifacts make up the mix. The village centre adjacent to the beach is within easy walking distance from most of the accommodations that are on offer in Tofo, so you don’t need a car to get your provisions and there are taxis on hand if you want to go farther afield.

This part of the coast offers great diving opportunities. I counted at least half-a-dozen diving operators all headquartered directly on the beach, with all the latest state-of-the-art equipment and utilizing very efficient rib boats for beach launches. The diving is clearly world-class, confirmed by the many nationalities of visitors who had crossed the globe to get here to experience it. There’s a shallower reef closer to shore and deeper reefs out to sea, catering for all standards of diver or those just wanting a snorkelling experience.

And there’s surf, too, not consistent, but absolutely good enough for beginners and the surf schools, while the more experienced surfers and the locals find their thrill on good-shaped waves breaking around the corner on the jagged reef. No wetsuits required here, warm, clear water is just another drawcard.

Horse-riding, a day out in a dhow, island visits, yoga and pilates options and, of course many kilometres of superb beach walks beckon.

Deepsea and game-fishing are legendary, and fish and shellfish seem to be in abundance. Local fishermen, in small rowboats, dragged off the beach, regularly make forays out past the surf and return with good catches that are sold off the boat, taken to the market or supplied to the lodges. I’m no fishing expert, but there was quite a variety of species being caught by rod and reel, and, if you like fish, there are plenty of options. Of course, prawns, lobster, crab and clams are a pretty staple diet but now quite expensive. You might have to exercise your best bargaining techniques to avoid forking out New York prices for that rock lobster you have been dreaming of.

Elon Musk’s skylink satellites pass overhead, which offer fast and efficient internet. Most places have WiFi and seemed happy to share the access codes. Not surprisingly, during our stay, I came across several “digital nomads” successfully working remotely. So, if keeping in touch with the “real world” and your day job is essential to you, that’s easily done. There were a couple of power outages while we were there, but nothing prolonged.

The whole vibe was chilled, and after a few days of getting your bearings, you quite quickly got into the gentle rhythm of the place. We were there in the pre-Christmas lull and it was pleasantly quiet, but I understand the pace picks up quite considerably over the two weeks around Christmas.

It’s a “pack light” kind of destination that’s good for the soul, right on South Africa’s doorstep, with an honest and wholesome charm that is currently more affordable than those other popular Indian Ocean island locations. Direct flights from Johannesburg, and now flights from Cape Town to Maputo, add to the ease and appeal. We were there for ten days, but could have easily stayed longer.

And as for those photo opportunities?... blue ocean, white sand, palm trees, happy people... what’s not to love?